I have been to Italy more than 15 times and there are still areas of the country that I haven’t visited.  I feel like I could go 50 times and still find areas I haven’t explored.  For this trip I was going for an invitation only luxury travel advisor event (one of only 200 advisors invited to attend!).  The event was held in Milan---somewhere I had never visited. 

​Milan has traditionally been known as a destination for business meetings and those interested in high end fashion.  That has changed over the past 10 years and Milan really has so much to offer.  Of course you can visit the iconic Duomo and do some wonderful shopping, but there is also a great food culture, many museums to visit and is a great home base for exploring some of the neighboring lakes (Lake Como is easy to see as a day trip from Milan).  Milan also had great connections (by flight, car or train) to the rest of Italy so it logistically makes sense to add it onto an itinerary.

Before my meetings started, I took a train to Bologna.   The train takes less than 1.5 hours and both train stations are in the city center, so no need for a drive to the airport.  Bologna is known for many things----it has the oldest university in the world (that is still operating), the old part of town is very walkable and of course it is known for its food.  This region of Italy is sometimes called Italy’s Kitchen.  Emilia Romagna produces world famous Parmesan Cheese, Balsamic Vinegar, Prosciutto di Parma and many kinds of filled pastas.  ​

I hired a guide and she took me to the vegetarian highlights of the region.  First stop was a dairy producing Parmesan cheese.  The cheese is made once per day and they start early (so expect to leave Bologna before breakfast).  The dairy I visited was quite small and family run and I could see many steps of the process during my visit.  The aging room is crazy big---towering shelves of cheese just waiting for the perfect moment to be eaten.  After the tour comes the tasting.  I’ve had my fair share of higher end, artisanal cheeses, but this Parm was to die for!  They also make ricotta cheese with the leftover whey. Eating that fresh, with a little honey, is also a nice treat!

​​Our next stop was Modena to visit a small, family run acetaia---a place where balsamic vinegar is made.   The vinegar is made in special barrels and the barrels are kept in the attic where the vinegar is exposed to the seasons with both heat and cold.  This is not your grocery store vinegar---some of the barrels of this acetaia have been used for hundreds of years (some back to the 1500’s).   It was really interesting to learn how the vinegar is made and even the lowest grade is still aged for a minimum of 12 years.  You also get to indulge in tasting at end of your visit here and I know that sounds less exciting than the cheese, but I was pleasantly surprised.  Even straight up, the vinegar has an interesting flavor profile.  I was also able to taste balsamic jam (a nice compliment to cheese) and taste creama gelato with a dribble of vinegar on top.  Who knew that gelato and vinegar went well together??   It was an excellent pairing.

​I enjoyed Bologna for the weekend before heading to my week of meetings in Milan.  After a very productive few days where I met nearly all of the luxury hoteliers in Italy (plus local guides and small tour companies), I knew I needed a break. 

Meeting all of these connections allows me to offer you insider access and really understand each of the properties so I can recommend the best hotels for your needs.  However, talking 16+ hours a day is exhausting! 

​So, I headed to Lake Garda.  A new property, Cape of Senses, had just opened and looked amazing.  I took the train from Milan to the nearest train station and had a driver take me the 25 minutes or so to the resort. ​ 

The property overlooks the lake and is just above the little town of Torri del Benaco.  Cape of Senses is a very peaceful place to stay with excellent cuisine and wonderful spa services.  Each room has outdoor space to breathe the fresh air and enjoy the scenery.  They have sourced nearly everything from the local area so you and the whole property smell like a beautiful mix of all that is good in Italy.  You can hike or bike or tour the local area…or relax and swim, lounge in the sauna and enjoy the spa.  Lake Garda has tourists, but it is a small fraction of the numbers that Lake Como has. It is a destination that Italians visit, so the vibe is different (in a good way).

I chose to fly to Tahiti from Rangiora and then take the ferry so I could experience it.   The ferry terminal is about 10 minutes from the airport and the ferry terminal area opens up about 30 minutes before each ferry departure.   In my experience (I took the ferry there and back), at least half of the people on the ferry are locals.  Going to Moorea, I’d say my ferry was about 90% locals and on the way back, it was about a 50%/50% split.  These are large enclosed ferries that also transport cars and motorcycles. 

When I arrived in Moorea, I rented a car.  Moorea is one of the few islands to be completely accessible by road. It was more developed than Rangiora, but not nearly as developed as Tahiti.  Each small town had its own vibe and when I say small town, even the largest areas only had a few shops and restaurants there is nothing like a large town on Moorea.  Papeete on Tahiti is the largest city in French Polynesia. 
 
Moorea also has varied terrain….within 15 minutes or so of driving I went from pretty open area to almost complete jungle that grows down the mountain slopes to the ocean.  I loved the lush vegetation. There are also areas with fruit plantations (mostly pineapple) and beautiful waterfalls a relatively short hike from a road.  They also have a juice factory that also doubles as a rum distillery.  Factory tours are free and there is a gift shop on site where you can sample both the juice and the rum. 

I stayed in another over water bungalow (in additional to a stay at a more traditional hotel) on Moorea.   My overwater bungalow at Manava Beach Resort was smaller than the one I had at Intercontinental (there was a couch and chairs, but they were inside one main room instead of separated), but it had 180 degree views as I had a bungalow at the end of a row of bungalows.  If you want to stay in a bungalow here, I would 100% book this type as it felt much more private.  There were local canoe teams practicing their rowing and I thought it was fascinating to watch, but still not a great place to sit naked 

​My bungalow also had a gorgeous sunrise view.  There is one property that I would consider luxury on Moorea, but most are more 3.5-4 star properties which makes the accommodation more affordable than Bora Bora giving more people a chance to experience a stay in an overwater bungalow.

The absolute highlight of my time in Moorea was snorkeling with humpback whales and their calves. The humpbacks come to French Polynesia to reproduce and give birth. I had considered going on a tour to see the whales before I left, but the snorkeling part didn’t seem like a good fit for me. After one of the lectures at the Conrad on Bora Bora I chatted with the marine biologist and she told me about a friend that started taking out very small groups of people to see and snorkel with the humpbacks---he takes out a maximum of 5 people.

​As with most wildlife encounters, the fewer humans around the wildlife, the less stressful it is for the wildlife and generally gives the humans the best experience as well. The other boats on Moorea take between 8 and 20 people out at a time. With a small group, it is easier to all stick together in the water (important for you safety as well as the safety of the whales) and to be able to get in and out of the boat quickly. I was honest with the guide and he was really supportive of me and my fear of snorkeling and lack of experience.

​The experience is difficult to put into words. It began with a what a small world moment.  I started chatting with one of the other people on the boat and within minutes, we realized we had both gone to the same really small college---College of the Atlantic.  When I say small, there were fewer than 200 students total when I graduated!  Anna is a much more recent graduate, but we had fun talking about our shared history.  It is because of her generosity that I have photos on this blog.  She has a wonderful talent for photographing marine mammals and was kind enough to share with me.  Her Instagram is amazing if you want to see more (her handle is asagatov) and she does underwater photography for a living, so if you have this need, Anna is the best.  

Once you see a whale, you are asked to slide into the water from the boat….splashing can freak out the whales….and swim as quietly as possible for the same reason. I am not an experienced swimmer so again I chose to wear a life vest so drowning wasn’t added to my list of things to be worried about. Whales are generally out in the ocean where it is deep and the waves and current can be very strong. There were times when waves were crashing over my head. My fear of not being able to breathe with the snorkel in my mouth definitely impacted me, but honestly once I caught a glimpse of the whale both above and below water only a few feet away it made all of the uncomfortableness 100% worth it.

In our first sighting, the whale and her baby stuck around for a while, so I had time to calm myself and relax into having my head underwater even with the waves. I watched the baby rise from many feet down in the water to the surface and it was mind blowing. I honestly don’t know how long we were in the water, but I can tell you I drank more than a mouthful or two of sea water and expended a lot of energy trying to stay close to the group in the strong current. We were probably in the water about 20-30 minutes.

I got back on the boat and was tired but wired. Some people sit in the boat for 3 or 4 hours and don’t see any whales, so I felt lucky to have this encounter and it happened shortly after we headed out. I was still trying to get my bearings when we saw another whale and her baby---when you see them, you only have a minute or two to get on your mask and fins and go. I really wanted to go in, but knew I was inexperienced and tired and that is not a good combo, so I sat that encounter out. I saw several whales breach the surface and being on the boat was still a magical experience. When the others got back on board it was hard to not have FOMO…..they had seen a mom sleeping underwater with her baby. They were just there essentially suspended under water.

The group felt such a connection with the whale and they were moved to tears. It was a very primal moment. Of course, after missing out on that, I told myself if there was another whale sighting I needed to go back in---and I did feel more rested.

About 10 minutes later, we did see another whale and we slid back in the water----mom came right up to the boat, but then didn’t seem to appreciate we were there, so the encounter was very short. We didn’t see any babies. It wasn’t too long before we saw yet another whale….and this time it was actually 4 together. I again was exhausted from the effort and didn’t want to put myself in a bad position, so I stayed on board.

Even from the boat I could tell there was a party in the water. In addition to the 4 whales breaching, there were also a handful of dolphins getting in on the action. It was close enough to see, but very difficult to photograph even above water with the waves. What an amazing sight! At this point we had only been out a little over 2 hours and it is rare to see so many marine mammals in that amount of time.We slowly started to head back and chose to do a snorkel stop on the reef where there were turtles, eagle rays, manta rays, and many colors of fish.

​This all kind of sounds like a wild Disney ride or something, but in reality, it was more a commuting with nature and serene and spiritual outing. Some of that is due to the people on board and some of that is how can you not feel something spiritual when you have swum with such beautiful and gentle creatures.
I aspire to try this again when I am better prepared and in better form to be able to swim, view and not feel like I am going to drown.  The video is also courtesy of Anna....and no that is not me swimming so gracefully, but I was in the water. 

​The next morning we left Bora Bora and headed to a different atoll Rangiora (the largest atoll in French Polynesia, although much of it isn’t developed).  The flight was a little over an hour---flying is the only way to island hop except if you choose to only visit the islands of Tahiti and Moorea and in that case you can fly or take a ferry. 

​Rangiora is less glitz and more real life French Polynesia. What I mean is the tourist infrastructure is less here than on Bora Bora.  Bora Bora is gorgeous and has many luxurious places to see, but you rarely get a glimpse of how locals live.  On Rangiora there are comfortable places to stay, but nothing really at the luxury level.  However, you can see a bit how locals live.  I rented a bicycle and rode from one section of the atoll to the other (about 12 miles round trip from the resort). I went from one pass to another….anywhere I could cycle.  I shopped at the local market (unfortunately part of my shopping was for dog food as many of the island’s dogs are not well cared for and appear to be in need of food).   I visited the local black pearl farm and learned how they cultivate pearls.  It is a long and complicated process and that is why black pearls can be quite expensive. ​

We also took a boat excursion here----we headed out of the lagoon on about a 45 minute boat journey to a place called the Blue Lagoon.  Up until this point, I thought Rangiroa was beautiful, but in the areas near land, the shades of blue were not as dramatic and stunning as Bora Bora.  Well, the Blue Lagoon gave Bora Bora a run for its money :)  The boat journey showed empty ocean until all of a sudden a few little motus (islands) popped up out of nowhere.  These motus are used by tour companies to make and serve lunch while guests explore the area.  The water is crystal clear and you walk in from the boat.  On the short walk in, we saw reef shark and several kinds of reef fish welcoming us.  When we journeyed to the next atoll, we almost stepped on a sting ray as it was hiding under some sand, but the water was so clear you could make out a blurry outline of something.  Once we stopped and really looked, you could easily see the 2 to 3 feet long tail…certainly not what you would want to step on .  Every few feet there was something to see…..and this was standing in the water….no need to snorkel here as the water was so clear from above. After lunch, the sharks get the leftovers and they seem to be able to tell time.  From about an hour before lunch until just after being fed, a large group (maybe 30-40+) reef sharks wait patiently for the leftovers.  They were circling and sort of bobbing and weaving around one another…..all crystal clear watching from the shore.  It was truly an amazing sight. 

After several hours at the Blue Lagoon we headed back and went to one of the passes where there is a group of wild dolphins that love to play around sunset.  We tried to see them from land one night, but it was quite windy (30+ mph) and the tide schedule wasn’t great for their antics, so we didn’t see any.  From the boat this day, we saw about 10 dolphins as they jumped and swam around the boat.  Our captain said they like cheerful music…..so they played upbeat songs and the dolphins seemed to like it. 

​My husband had gone scuba diving in this same pass the 2 days before and the divemaster told him many of the dolphins like to hug divers.  He asked what to do if you didn’t want a hug from the dolphin (who wouldn’t want a dolphin hug if they initiated it??) and the divemaster said the dolphin Is in charge and you basically can’t refuse a hug.  I want to stress that these are not Sea World graduates or anything----they are used to people and I think people probably taught them some of their behaviors, but these dolphins are wild.  It was amazing to see in person.

​​For the next destination, my husband went to Fakarava to scuba dive (one of the best places to scuba dive in French Polynesia and according to some people, one of the best places in the world).  I went to Moorea.  More on that in my next blog post. 

​My last blog post ended when I was about to switch resorts on Bora Bora.  What not everyone realizes (even me until recently) is that there really aren’t many roads on Bora Bora and none of the resorts are accessible that way.  Remember how I mentioned that a boat from your resort or the public ferry picks you up from the airport…well, if you want to switch resorts in Bora Bora, you have to hire a private boat or pay for the airport transfer to the airport and then pay for the transfer from the airport to the other hotel….and you have to coordinate all of that near a real flight arrival.  So, private boat it was for me.  Everything is quite expensive in French Polynesia so I was actually expecting the boat ride to be a higher price than it was (this was another area in which my connections paid off).  The boat ride between the Conrad and Intercontinental Thalasso took about 25 minutes and it was a beautiful ride.  Every day we were on Bora Bora was gorgeous.  Some of that was due to the season I was there, but I think Bora Bora is pretty gorgeous year round :)

The Intercontinental Thalasso resort is an all overwater bungalow property.   That is the only type of room they have.  They are located in what I’m going to call resort alley….as we neared the resort, we saw the Four Seasons first, then next to that is St. Regis and next to that is the new Westin and within almost swimming distance is the Intercontinental Thalasso.  Each resort has something like a Presidential Suite, which is a multi-bedroom overwater bungalow, but otherwise the bungalows are generally all similar sized and the categories only reflect their position on the resort (mountain view, ocean view, sunset view, etc). 

Our bungalow had a living area with a couch, comfortable chairs and a desk…and the iconic coffee table that is glass and gives you a view to the water….and the fish in it….right from your bungalow.  The table slides so you can feed the fish at the Intercontinental.  In my opinion, that is encouraging people to litter in the ocean.  I imagine people try to feed the fish all kinds of things that the fish have no interest in eating.  Needless to say, I didn’t feed the fish.  The bungalow also had a proper bedroom, walk in closet, and a full bathroom with a bathtub and shower.  There was a deck with 2 chaise loungers and a table outside and a swimming platform so you could get in the ocean directly from your bungalow.  There is a small privacy divider to keep you from seeing what your neighbor is doing, but that only works to a point.  You could see everyone’s swimming platform and there were people snorkeling and kayaking in the lagoon that is in the center of many of the bungalows, so while beautiful, the bungalows aren’t all that private. Note to all the honeymooners that want to hang out naked with their partner...

​The main areas of the resort are on land, so you walk from your bungalow along the boardwalk (or call a golf cart) to reception, the restaurants, pool, shop and spa.  It took about 7 minutes walking from our bungalow to the restaurant that served breakfast, but we weren’t walking all that fast. ​

 My husband and I had a full day tour planned.  I had only tried to snorkel a few times in my life and I have never enjoyed it.  I have asthma and simply feel like I can’t breathe….but for some reason, I could relax and snorkel at the lagoon at the Conrad.  I decided to ride my brave streak and actually get in the water on the snorkel stops on our tour (I’m normally what is often called a “bubble watcher” on scuba and snorkel boats….meaning I take it all in from the boat).   Our first stop was snorkeling with black tipped reef sharks.  Why start with turtles when you can jump right in with sharks :)  

I chose to wear a life vest so I was buoyant and didn’t have to think to breathe, swim, look at sharks, don’t get eaten by sharks and not drown.  Just kidding about the eating part….black tip reef sharks are generally harmless to humans and are beautiful creatures.  Our second snorkeling stop was in an area with many manta rays and our third in was in an area nicknamed the aquarium.  It is a beautiful reef area that is reasonably shallow so easy for people to snorkel.  The reef really is a colorful wonderland.  I tried to use my phone to take photos, but it was too much for me….I got a few random shots, but in the meantime, I also hit all kinds of settings which messed up my photos for the next couple of hours until I realized what I had done.  This is a reminder to be kind to yourself…everyone wants beautiful photos to share from their travels, but sometimes it is better to just experience that, than to focus on getting photos to post.  And sometimes it is great to try something to new and to push yourself, but that may mean you need to focus more on what you are doing rather than trying to document it.
 
After a full morning, we headed to a small motu (like a little island) for lunch.  There were several picnic tables in the water and I ate while having many kinds of tropical fish, manta ray and even some reef sharks swimming around…the ray was close enough to touch, but I chose not to (I think they probably don’t enjoy that….they can’t speak for themselves, so I decided to give them space). 
 
The journey back to the hotel would be considered an excursion in itself in many other parts of the world---no matter how many times I say it, breathtaking is truly the only world.

The next stop on my journey is moving to Rangiroa and that will be in the next blog post. 

​I think just about everyone has seen photos of French Polynesia (used to be called
Tahiti) and the famous over water bungalows. I've seen many as a Certified French
Polynesia Travel Advisor, but even knowing what to expect, I was blown away by the
vibrant shades of blue water as soon as I landed.

​French Polynesia is the name for this island group in the Pacific---Tahiti is one of the
islands within French Polynesia. So is Bora Bora which is where we started our trip.
The international flights all land in Papeete on Tahiti and then you take a smaller plane
to Bora Bora (or many other islands). The flying time from Los Angeles is about 8
hours.

​Our flight was met by traditional ukulele players to welcome us and the airport has some
beautiful views. However, once inside the airport, the welcome was less beautiful.
Many international flights arrive around 5am and there are only a handful of immigration
officers, so on our arrival, we waited over an hour to clear immigration. That wouldn’t
have been terrible if we weren’t trying to catch our little flight to Bora Bora----I had given
us 2 hours and 40 minutes to connect which should have been plenty, but you must
check in and check your baggage with Air Tahiti (the operator of most of the smaller
flights) one hour before boarding. We made it by 2 minutes. I’m not sure how strict
they are, but it gave me some stress waiting in line. Security was also slow, but they
had you line up by flight and you knew the flight wasn’t going to leave without you as
everyone on the plane was standing in the same line :) In the end we were delayed
about 30 minutes to Bora Bora. Our plane held about 80 people and was very
comfortable.

Bora Bora has very few roads and the main form of transportation to get from point A to
point B is by boat. The airport has a runway right next to the ocean and when you
arrive, you walk to one of the resort stands or the public ferry for transportation
wherever you are going. We were headed to beautiful Conrad hotel and we received a
lei greeting and the representative took our luggage while we waited the few minutes for
the boat to arrive. The views were gorgeous so way more enjoyable than most airport
arrivals.

The boat journey to the Conrad took about 25 minutes. We arrived during the windy
season and there was quite a bit of spray kicking up as we went, so the windows on the
boat were closed (the back of the boat was open so you could still feel the breeze). We
arrived at the resort about 9:30am and since I knew we would want to go relax after the
red eye flight, I booked the night before so we could go straight to our room and eat the
included breakfast from the night before. As a Virtuoso advisor, I could take advantage
of the complimentary perks that my clients receive----complimentary breakfast (about
$130 value for 2 people, per night) and a $100 resort credit----in addition to an exclusive
sale when I booked which gave me my 4 th night free. That means the night I booked
before my arrival cost me only the amount of taxes for the night (the room rate was
free). Booking with me gives you quite a bit of added value to your stay (rooms start
around $800 per night here).

The Conrad is beautiful and has some great snorkeling right from the beach. They also
partner with non-profit organizations to educate guests on coral reefs and Mantas and
offer the opportunity to snorkel with marine biologists and even do a coral cutting to help
grow some of the artificial reefs in the area. I’m a science geek and really enjoyed the
evening presentations. The marine biologists are also available many days to answer
questions and tell you what type of fish and other marine mammals you are likely to see
in the area.

Like many properties in French Polynesia, the Conrad has many categories of
overwater bungalows to choose from. They also have garden and beach villas. I
stayed in a garden villa and honestly preferred this type of accommodation. The
outdoor space is a bit larger, and I think had more privacy than most of the overwater
bungalows. It was about a 2 minute walk to the beach and we had beautiful beach
views. Like I mentioned, we are here in the windy season and having all the lush
plants and trees surround our villa buffered us from much of the wind.

We are moving to a new property on the other side of Bora Bora and I will let you know
how that compares in my next blog post.

I sailed on Silversea’s new ship Silver Nova.  This was one of the largest cruise ships I’ve sailed on with about 700 guests.  However, by cruising standards, this is still a very small ship.   Silversea is known for excellent service and the guest to staff ratio is nearly 1:1 and every guest has a butler (even the lowest category of room has a butler).  The staterooms are large and well appointed---even the entry level classic verandah suites.  My bathroom was huge and had double vanities and a large shower with a bench to sit on.   Some staterooms also have a bath tub.  The balcony (also called a verandah) had enough room for a small table and two chairs AND room to walk around and take photos.  This is a great space to have in a destination like Alaska where there are long hours of daylight and stunning scenery every day. ​

The cruise started with a day at sea---it is a long journey from Vancouver to the first port stop of Ketchikan.  Silversea offers a wide variety of excursions and I chose to kayak in Ketchikan.  Ketchikan is the wettest city in America and they get over 13 FEET of rain each year.  The way I kayak I typically get wet anyway…..so I figured that was a good activity if it did rain ☺  The weather cooperated and we only got a few sprinkles and had a wonderful time enjoying the pristine waters.  We even have a few playful seals follow us and we saw about a dozen eagles. ​

Our next stop was the capital of Juneau.  I walked into town and saw the state capital, governors mansion and some of the older churches in an easy walk from the port.  My main excursion to the famous Mendenhall Glacier wasn’t until the afternoon.  This was my first helicopter ride ever and this was a great way to start.  The heliport is a short drive from the port and the helicopter ride to the glacier is about 20 minutes with the scenery getting more spectacular with each moment.  My excursion allowed me to land on the glacier and take a short walk.  You are provided with boots to place over your shoes with spikes on the bottom for traction on the ice.  I felt like a small little dot on this huge glacier….it really is impressive, both from the air and on the ground.  Small little streams of water run through the glacier and you can lay on your belly and take a sip.  You fly out the way you came in, but the perspective is looking out at the green trees and ocean on the way back…still pretty stunning. ​

The next stop was Skagway and I was scheduled to go on the White Pass Railway.  Skagway had a large landslide last season and it closed the main pier where cruise ships dock, so now every ship has to use tenders.  Tenders are smaller boats that hold about 50 people that bring you from the ship to shore.  They are enclosed and fairly comfortable, but it can be a bit logistically challenging to get everyone off the ship in time for excursions.  There were hundreds of people going on the train and while the staff kept saying not to worry, I can tell my looking at the time that my group was not going to make the train.  Sure enough, by the time we made it to land, the train was long gone.  Silversea offered guests the option to go on a later train that left about 1.5 hours later.  I decided it was a beautiful day and that I would prefer to be outside.  Skagway has a couple of hiking trails right from the middle of town.  I took a trail that took me up to a lake and the trail went all the way around---it was a nice way to spend a few hours.

​Our last port stop was Sitka and I had already planned to hike here.  I hired a guide to take me into the Tongass National Forest---this was another trail that you can join right from the town center.  The national forest has a large amount of biodiversity and is a nice place to explore--- Iwish I was there in the berry season as there are several kinds that grow right along the trails, but I was a few weeks to a month early.  I did see a baby banana slug.  Not exactly the same as seeing a moose or bear, but it was something different.​

The next day was scenic sailing at the Hubbard Glacier.  Many Alaskan sailings have a day like this.  People can get confused as the glacier is listed as a port, but you aren’t able to get off the ship.  The ship gets as close as it can safely to the glacier, so you can appreciate the colors, size and the loud noise of calving (when pieces break off the glacier and fall into the water).  We had about 10 calving  events that day---by the time you hear the noise, the ice is already in the water.  We spent about an hour at the glacier.  The staff turns it into an event---if you choose to come out to the top deck for a head on view, there is hot chocolate, glühwein, coffee and snacks.   We arrived at the glacier around 9am, but the glacier scenery (meaning when there started to be small little icebergs) started more like 7:30am and we weren’t back out to open ocean until around 11:30am, so it was a full morning of scenery. ​

I have been looking at several “best” lists recently and decide to create my own.   I have been traveling for many years and Unraveled Travel will turn 10 years old next year, so I have plenty of options to choose from :)  I'm happy to plan your stay at any of these beautiful properties.  Photo above is from One & Only Nyungwe House. 

These are listed in no particular order…..

Borneo:  Borneo Rainforest Lodge
I traveled to Borneo to see the Orangutans and I eventually did see them in a different part of Borneo, but even without seeing one at this location (it rained the whole time….) this was still a magical stay for me.  As the name implies, you are right in the rainforest and it is a journey to get here, but once you do…. you feel a million miles away from the world.   There are several types of accommodation and I stayed in a villa.   Guided walks and meals are included in most stays.  One thing you absolutely need to pack are leech socks (or purchase them at the lodge).  

​France:  Hotel Chais Monnet and Spa
This property is in Cognac which is a relatively undiscovered area (when compared with nearby Bordeaux).  The drive from Bordeaux is filled with vineyards and there are several tasting houses close to this property (the concierge can arrange tours and tastings).  The hotel is a mix of new and old and you feel like you are in Cognac with all of the local touches (and a huge selection of cognacs at the bar).  You don’t need to enjoy cognac to enjoy this area or this property.

​Rwanda:  One and Only Nyungwe House
Everyone thinks mountain gorillas when they think of Rwanda and the One and Only Gorillas Nest property is beautiful, but the Nyungwe property really took my breath away.  It is located on a working tea plantation and near the national park when you can trek to see chimpanzees.  This peaceful property has wonderful food (they have many gardens on-site) and I saw more species of primates from my balcony at this property than I did hiking in the national parks.  

​Peru:  Belmond Sanctuary Lodge
The main reason to stay here is that you are literally a 2 minute walk to Machu Picchu and you can often see the citadel from the property (when there aren’t heavy clouds).  Sanctuary Lodge is a boutique property and feels very exclusive.  To be honest, the rooms aren’t anything special, but you aren’t spending much time there.  Included with your stay is a Pisco Sour making class at the bar accompanied by a potato tasting (trust me…these aren’t your typical potatoes!).

​Germany:  Ritz Carlton Berlin
I love Berlin and this property is in a great location.  The staff here take care of your every need with a smile and the rooms are quite large.  There is a champagne ritual each night (included with your stay) and the breakfast buffet is one of the best I’ve had.  If you want to go running, one of the staff will run with you (sometimes even the general manager).  

​Belize:  Turtle Inn Placencia
This is one of several properties owned by director Francis Ford Coppola and is in a beautiful area of Placencia.  This is the quieter beach area of Belize (much smaller and quieter than Ambergris).   The accommodation is in a thatched building with an indoor/outdoor bathroom.  Turtle Inn is small and right on the beach.  You feel like you are family as soon as you arrive.  The property was fostering a stray dog and he was part of the welcoming committee….and those of you that know me, know that any property that supports animals wins my heart (and my business). 

​South Africa:  Chitwa Chitwa
This is the lodge where I went on my first safari in 2014 and got me hooked.  The property is right on a watering hole and there are frequent animal visitors---I saw elephant, leopard, hippo, kudu, and crocodile without ever leaving the lodge.  There are large windows in the bathroom and I will never forget seeing hippo walking right past the windows while I was in the bath tub.   The food is excellent as are the guides and trackers.  

​Columbia:  Casa San Agustin
This property is right in the center of Cartagena and is historic---with many modern upgrades on the inside.  We had a balcony and could watch the world go by from the peacefulness of our room.  The food and drink menu is excellent---especially for non-alcoholic cocktails (I loved a cherry, lime and seltzer combo).   The bed was one of the most comfortable that I have ever slept on.  

​Italy:  Forestis
This property is bit trendy at the moment (Justin Bieber stayed here about a year before I did) and that isn’t usually my scene, but it is trendy for relaxation and immersion in nature which is my scene.  You absolutely need a car to get here and explore the area if you plan to stay for several days….or you can stay and be present in the moment.  The views are gorgeous and I saw multiple rainbows one afternoon (including a double rainbow that lasted almost an hour).  Most rates include breakfast and dinner and the food is excellent and they are known for accommodating every dietary requirement.  

​Taiwan:  Regent Taipei
This property is in a great central location in Taipei and I stayed on the club level making the large hotel feel much more boutique.  I asked for a few vegetarian restaurant recommendations from the concierge staff in the lounge and when I came back from exploring, she had created an elaborate handwritten package with several suggestions with directions and menus.   Going that step above instead of just giving me website links shows the focus on details here.   The breakfast buffet had items from all over the world.  

These are two client favorites. I haven’t stayed at either property yet, but hope to soon.  
 
Italy:  Hotel Brunellechi
This hotel is right in the center of Florence (many rooms have views of the Duomo) and was constructed using several historic buildings.   I have a great relationship with this hotel and you will be treated as a VIP if you book your stay with me.
 
Ireland:  Sheen Falls Lodge
This property is close to Killarney but set on the Wild Atlantic Way.   There are many on-site activities to keep you busy or you can relax and simply enjoy the views of Kenmare Bay.  This is a Relias and Châteaux property, so you know that the food and drink are a priority.  You will also be treated like a VIP here as well if you book with me. 
 

I had the pleasure of sailing on the SH Diana from Mombasa, Kenya to Maputo Mozambique.  If you are reading this and have never heard of either port, you are not alone :)  This sailing appealed to me because it took me places off the beaten path….for some ports, really off the beaten path.  Swan Hellenic’s name has been around for decades, but investors purchased it during COVID and created an expedition focused cruise line.  The ships are brand new and were built with expeditions in mind---meaning it is easier to get on/off zodiacs, the stability of the ship is better than many ships and common spaces are built for expedition style activities.
 
You might ask what is an expedition sailing?  There isn’t a perfect definition, but it typically means that you are visiting ports that are off the beaten path and that the port is the destination.  Most people on expedition ships leave the ship each day it is in port and explore or go on an excursion.  The ports often don’t have huge piers or docks, so the ship often has to anchor offshore, and you have to take a tender or Zodiac to your destination.  This means that sometimes you get wet and that you need to be fit enough to get into and out of small boats---the staff assist you, but this isn’t the sailing for people with severe mobility challenges.  The guests on board are generally well educated and interested in the culture, animals and nature of the destinations.  You for sure have the opportunity to bring out your inner science geek during these sailings, but there are plenty of other things to do if that doesn’t interest you.  
 
The ship is functional, but it is also beautiful. The staterooms are some of the best thought out ones I’ve seen.  There is a lot of storage in the rooms---from the closest, to cabinets, drawers and shelves located around the room.  The desk area also has a flip up make up mirror so it could double as a vanity.  There are also several electrical outlets----both the American 110V style and European 220V style.   Many staterooms also have electric fireplaces which are perfect for the polar and Arctic expeditions (not so appropriate in Africa, but no heat escapes, so you could still enjoy it if you wanted). 

​The ships travel around the world and seldom repeat an exact itinerary (except in Antarctica).  This allows you to stay on board for one segment like I did (11 days) or stay on for several segments.  Some of the guests on board with me were sailing for 21 or 30 days.  However, this also means that if you want a specific itinerary, you need to book quickly.  The sailing I was on won’t be repeated until next fall and there are already a few changes in ports. 
 
I chose this itinerary because it had 4 stops in Madagascar.  I’ve always wanted to visit there…especially to see the lemurs which can only be found in Madagascar.  It can be a challenge to get to Madagascar by air and travel between cities can be complicated, so a cruise made perfect sense.  I got to see several different areas of the country with no effort on my end.  I also liked this itinerary since we visited some of the remote outer islands of Seychelles.  One port only has researchers living on the island and there is more tortoise there than in the Galapagos.  I had never heard of it before I saw it as a port of call listed on this sailing.  Very few people can say they have visited Aldabra (and Assumption) and it was a unique and memorable experience.  
 

Swan Hellenic includes at least one excursion per day in the price of the cruise (for most sailings).  The on-board experience is nearly all-inclusive.  The cruise fare includes one night of hotel before the cruise, all of the restaurants on board, most alcoholic and non-alcoholic drinks, room service, Wi-Fi and staff gratuities.   Spa treatments, ultra-premium alcohol and optional excursions are at an additional charge.   
 
I would love to help you plan your next expedition sailing.  Please contact me to get started.  

I recently had the pleasure of visiting Africa for the fifth time.  I booked a small ship sailing on a Swan Hellenic from Kenya to Mozambique and I decided to make the most the most of my trip in Africa.    I won’t lie…it is a long trip from Arizona to Africa, but it is always worth it :)
 
This trip started with a quick overnight in Nairobi before I headed out for safari.  Kenya has many areas where you can go on safari and the best way to reach most is by small aircraft.  The planes typically hold between 8 and 12 people and the schedules are decided the day of travel.  For example, I was going to Loisaba and my ticket simply said Nairobi to Loisaba…if enough people were going to Loisaba, the flight might have been non-stop.  On my flight, I was the only one going there, so I had to fly to Mt. Kenya and switch planes and make one other stop before arriving at Loisaba.  Travel in Africa often requires some flexibility and patience.   All in, I only arrived about one hour later than originally scheduled.  
 
I chose safari lodges that focus on sustainability and have good relationships with the surrounding communities.  The first safari camp, Loisaba Tented Camp, is part of the Elewana Collection.  Elewana has properties in Kenya and Tanzania and have an excellent reputation for responsible tourism.   Elewana is the only safari company with properties in Loisaba (there are 3) so it feels like you are almost alone with the wildlife on the safari drives.
​
I chose to have a private guide and vehicle for my game drives.  This means I could choose exactly when I wanted to leave for the drives and when I wanted to return.  I had the option to come back for breakfast or eat breakfast out in the wild.  Private game drives come at a supplement, but especially if you are traveling with other people, the price is very reasonable.  Having your own guide also means you can ask questions as often as you like or ask to search for animals that you are very interested in seeing.  

​I recommend that clients stay in private conservancy areas for safari.   Private conservancy areas are managed to limit the impact of travelers on the wildlife.  The areas are restricted to guests staying at lodges located in the conservancy and different rules apply when compared to staying outside these conservancies.  For example, vehicles can go off road to get closer to wildlife in most conservancy areas, but once an animal is spotted, the number of vehicles allowed at the sighting is often very limited (usually to only 3 to 5 vehicles).   This allows the animals have plenty of room to roam and be wild and they aren’t as stressed as when unlimited vehicles are allowed.    A portion of the funds you pay for safari are also funneled back into protecting the animals and land in the conservancy.
 
In Loisaba Conservancy, there are several different types of terrain, and it is common to see many of the typical safari animals, except for rhino.  Rhinos are endangered and their numbers have been depleted in East Africa.  Loisaba has been working with scientists to develop a rhino re-introduction program for years and rhino are expected to be released here in the coming months.   This is a major development in conservation.  One reason Loisaba was selected for this program is they have an excellent anti-poaching unit.  The anti-poaching until was so successful that no animal has been poached here in over 7 years----poachers know they will likely get caught and it isn’t worth the risk.  The unit still monitors the conservancy, but now also works with the local communities to help when there are crimes or cases of missing people.  The same skills that allow the dogs to track poachers are used to find others.   Giving back to the community gives community members incentive to protect the conservancy and its wildlife---which ensures more tourism dollars.  

​After a few days at Loisaba, I head to the famous Masai Mara.   I board a plane at the same small airstrip where I arrived and this time there are already many people on board, so we head directly to the Masai Mara.  The Mara is large enough that there are multiple airstrips---my lodge is closest to the first stop.  
 
For this part of the safari, I stayed at Great Plains lodges.   Great Plains Conservation is also a leader is sustainable tourism and they have lodges in Kenya, Botswana and Zimbabwe.  I split my stay between Mara Expedition Camp and Mara Plains.   I like to experience as many camps as possible to help me select the best camps for my cleints.  
 
I started at Mara Expedition Camp and my guide took me to the main part of the Masai Mara so I could see the differences between this area and the conservancies that Great Plains has access to in the area.   I immediately saw large herds of impalas, zebra and gazelles in the plains and the scenery is beautiful.  However, as we drove around the area, we could see safari vehicles essentially racing all in one direction from time to time.  I asked my guide what was going on and he said, there was an animal sighting and the guides all heard on the radio and were heading there.  He took to my one such sighting---this was a leopard eating his kill in a tree.  I was shocked at the number of safari vehicles there.   There were literally rows of vehicles going 5 and 6 rows deep from the tree and I stopped counting at 30 vehicles.  Some people had their huge cameras out and were trying to get photos and other people took this opportunity to have drinks and snacks and chat (all while still in the vehicle).  The whole scene was like a circus.  The leopard was stressed and stopped eating.  I asked the guide to leave within just a couple of minutes.  Later that evening, we saw a lion at a distance and there were also 20+ vehicles pulled off the side of the road trying to get a peek at the lion.  Because of park regulations, vehicles can’t go off road to get closer to the wildlife and while I was disappointed to only see the lion through binoculars, I was happy the restrictions were in place as I imagine wildlife would find it difficult to simply exist if literally a hundred or more safari vehicles were chasing them each day. 
 

In contrast, the next morning we drove (I again chose to do a private game drive) to Mara North Conservancy and it was probably more than an hour before we saw even one other safari vehicle (and had seen quite a bit of wildlife).   This lack of competition also allowed me to just sit in silence at times with the animals----we were near a giraffe and I sat there and listened to her chew for several minutes.  Perhaps not the most exciting thing it the world, but it was really exciting for me as I love giraffes :)
Since I was changing lodges, we decided to have breakfast out in the bush and then head back to the new lodge for lunch.   I love every minute I’m on safari, but I will say after several hours of the “African massage” the sweet term often used for all of the bouncing around on the unpaved roads…it is nice to have a little break.  It is important to let me know if you have any back or neck problems as there are some safari areas that are kinder to your body than others. 
 
Mara Plains is a beautiful property and you fall asleep (or sit straight up in bed in the middle of night) with sounds of the hippos and other wildlife.  There is a small river right at the property which is why there are nearly always hippo.  This is one of the few Relias and Châteaux safari properties in the world—I believe there are 3.  This distinction means the food and beverage served here is as good as the wildlife viewing. The photos below show each of the 3 lodges.   

​During safari, you typically go for a morning game drive (as the sun comes up) and an afternoon game drive (a couple of hours before sunset).  Each game drive is different even if you go on the same route (which doesn’t happen often).  Some game drives you may see a ton of wildlife and other game drives the animals may be hiding.  Going on safari is not like going to a zoo---there are no guarantee you will see anything, but in areas where conservation is a focus, the animals are mostly thriving which means you have an excellent chance of seeing wildlife.  Even if you don’t need or want to stay at a luxury safari lodge, the guides at the luxury lodges tend to have the most experience and knowledge and this translates into better wildlife viewing for you.  The experienced guides also know how to approach wildlife in the vehicles with minimum impact on the animal….and they have good instincts where the animals might be if they aren’t out in the open.  
 
I hope this post has inspired you to consider a trip to Africa.  I am happy to help you plan your safari.  It is truly a memorable experience!   I will continue with the rest of my trip in my next blog post. 
 

I just returned from a wonderful stay in Greenland with Nomad Greenland.  They operate sustainable "glamping" camps that give you a true feel for being in Greenland.  My experience began when my host Inuuteq picked me up at the airport from my late evening flight from Reykjavik.  At the moment, flights to Greenland leave from Denmark and Iceland--I chose Iceland because of the non-stop flight to Nuuk.  

Inuuteq is a native Greenlander and he served as my guide for the entire stay.  I felt like I'd make a friend right away and we chatted about everything from the logistics of the trip to life in Greenland to world politics. After a short drive, I arrived at the hotel in Nuuk and spent a quick overnight before heading to the boat around 10am the next morning.  The weather wasn't the best and due to fairly strong winds, I was transferred using what is called a closed boat.  The differences in the boats are simple---one is closed to the elements and the other is a RIB boat and you are completely exposed to the elements (for better or worse). 

In a closed boat, it takes between 1.5 and 2 hours to get to Kiattua camp.  We didn't see one other boat after leaving the Nuuk harbor and the closer we got to camp, the more ice we saw.  If you weren't paying attention, you would drive right by the camp. There really isn't a reason to be hidden as so few people come to this area, but I do appreciate the thought that went into making the camp blend into the surroundings. The welcoming committee, including Gin the dog, met me on the dock and I walked up to the camp to see where I would be spending the next 4 days.  

The camp is very comfortable.  Currently the camp can accommodate about 12 guests at a time, but they limit the number of separate guests at 3---meaning if 3 single people are traveling alone, the camp would be full with 3.  Or 3 couples would make the camp full at 6.  I shared the camp with 2 other families for my first 2 nights---the kids were older (16+ years old)---and enjoyed how the meals are served family style to encourage conversation.  Kids of all ages are welcomed at the camp.  The last night, I was the only guest.  

The tents are private and have a real bed and a chair.  You also have a private bathroom tent, but that is a few steps away from your sleeping tent.  New this year are flushable toilets which is a little crazy considering how remote the camp is---but it is a nice perk.  The staff turned on the bed and room heaters while I was at dinner, so I was never cold in the tent.  During the day, I only came into the tent to change clothes or perhaps take a quick nap after a long day of hiking.  With views like these, I always wanted to be outside. 

The plan for your stay a camp is basically no plan :)  I say this in the best possible way.  This is not a trip where you can say at 10am you will hike and at 2pm you will kayak.  The weather is the number one driving factor and do have to work within that constraint, but otherwise, you and your host can decide to do what you want pretty much whenever you like.   My expectations were pretty simple---I wanted to hike and see icebergs.  I accomplished that within an hour of arriving at camp. You can hike up to the waterfall right from camp.  Hike perhaps isn't the right word though as there are no hiking paths---there are paths between the tents to help maintain the vegetation at camp as people are always walking back and forth, but outside the perimeter, you simply walk.   I followed Inuuteq pretty closely as he knew where the holes were and which areas were swampier than others.  To my eye, it was a beautiful blanket of green with a few sparks of color....very small flowers.  I loved how when you brushed the vegetation, it brought up a wonderful smell.  Staying at Kiattua stimulates all of your senses and makes the journey really memorable. 

I had all kinds of weather (except snow) during my stay and the scenery takes on a different feel with the weather.  The clouds make it feel mysterious and the sun highlights all of the little details like the subtle color changes of the ice.  I also visited during a time when it never truly gets dark---the sun sets around 11:45pm and rises again at 3am and in between is twilight.  Sort of just like a really cloudy day.  It is sort of eery, but gave me the impression of having more time.  The first 2 photos below show the difference between a sunny morning and an after midnight twilight. 

I'm going to let the photos speak for themselves---this is random selection from my activities while at Kiattua, including some amazing food using mostly local Greenlandic ingredients.  

I would love to help you plan your journey to Greenland.  Now is the time to visit to have this peaceful experience---starting 2025 the airport will be getting larger and more people will visit.  Greenland is trying to be strategic to allow for travelers to visit while still keeping the environment, culture and beauty intact.