From Rwanda I headed to Uganda. While the countries are neighbors, they each have a different feel. One obvious difference is that they drive on the opposite side of the road in Uganda (Rwanda drives the same as the States, Uganda the same as the UK). They are also in a different time zone. A new driver, Sam, picked me up at my last Rwanda hotel to drive me by road. I knew the border with Uganda would be different as the two countries were having a trade dispute---at least that is how it was explained to me---but regular citizens were not allowed to cross the borders. Tourists were allowed. Out of the blue, I saw a guard near a road block and my driver stopped and explained we were going to Uganda. That guard didn't ask for verification....I guess my blonde hair was proof enough....lol. A short distance after that, my driver pulled over to the side of the road and explained how I was supposed to cross the border. He pointed at several little out buildings and told me I had to cross on foot. I would have liked to take photos, but that is prohibited. I stopped at the first little building and was waved by and I crossed into Uganda. There was no one else around. I was the only person crossing the border. It was strange and eery. The first building on the Ugandan side was a UN tent that was still in place from the previous Ebola outbreak---now it was serving as a COVID check as well. The signs pointed to a place to wash my hands and a tub of bleach water (I think??) where I was to dip my shoes. I followed the arrow and a person was there in a gown, mask and face shield and he took my temperature (across my forehead). I was waved on. On the other side was a gentleman sitting outside with a card table under a pop tent. He was asking where I was going and what my occupation was. There were two other people coming from Uganda into Rwanda---both teachers from the US coming back from a day trip. We all commented that it was odd to ask us our occupations of all things. The next stop was another gentleman under an awing of a building---or I thought it was the next stop----but was quickly told he was Uganda and I needed to go into the next building to be checked out of Rwanda first. The computers were down, so I filled out a piece of paper, passport was stamped and the same process repeated to enter once I made it back to the Uganda immigration table. I was the only person in either immigration area. Completely surreal. My driver had told me to wait by a tree on the other side. I guess they scrutinize the drivers more than the travelers---he has a different process----and after about 20 minutes we were on our way.
It quickly became clear that Uganda isn't able to...or interested in....keeping roads to the same level as Rwanda. We drove on a paved road for about 20 minutes before turning off to head to my next destination. My driver said outside the capital areas of Entebbe (where the international airport is located) and Kampala, there is typically only one main road that is paved. All of the others are in gravel or dirt, some in better condition than others. We were headed to Mt Gahinga Lodge--part of Volcanoes Safaris---known for excellent conservation and community efforts. There are two gorilla families in the Mt Gahinga area, but I was only spending one night here. One photo of the lodge is above (this is main building where you can relax and eat meals--the accommodations are all in bandas (little cottages) spread out across the property). It is a gorgeous property and you feel like you are in the middle of nowhere (in a good way....). To be truthful, it is sort of in the middle of nowhere :) Once we pulled off the main road, I had no idea how long it would take to the lodge. There were some small villages in the beginning and the road, while unpaved, was in pretty good condition. The scenery was beautiful as we were seeing the opposite side of the mountains from Rwanda. After probably 20 minutes or so, my driver Sam asked if I was ready for a Ugandan massage---I had heard the term Rwandan massage whenever we had to go on a dirt road. Essentially it meant are you ready to be bounced around.
Once we arrived at the lodge, I can say I was for sure ready for the real massage that was included with my stay! The lodge was beautiful and I wish I had more time to explore and take in all the lodge had to offer.
Sam said we needed to leave at 7am the next morning to continue my journey to the Biwindi Impenetrable Forest. I had heard about Biwidi---and the gorillas that live there---for at least the past 20 years. It was a place I felt like I absolutely had to see. In working with my contact in Uganda, I kept getting answers like you can't get there from that point or you have to fly and then drive something crazy like 6 hours.. Looking at a map, it looked like Biwindi was just a short distance from Rwanda. This is an example of when you should listen to the expert---the person that lives in Uganda and has actually been there. My contact did tell me that from Mt Gahinga you could drive for 2 hours and then walk for 3 to 5 hours to Biwindi. I think I was so excited to hear of a plan that I didn't really think this through perhaps as much as I should have. I said sounds good to me and booked that. So, Sam and I drove the 2 hours experiencing more of an Ugandan massage than I ever thought possible (and seeing some gorgeous scenery along the way).
We arrived at the ranger station for my "walk"---notice the quotes---I had asked Sam about the "walk" during our drive as I'm seeing how dense an impenetrable forest really is and how much elevation change there is. He said people from this area walk there to go to the market and that it should only take a fit person like me maybe 2 or 3 hours to get there. He said my contact said up to 5 because sometimes old people take that long. Spoiler alert, if old people take 5 hours , I'm ancient...lol. The rangers walk with you in case you run into wildlife and the porter brings your bag. Only the porter spoke English and as we headed out we chatted about our lives. They told me half way through we would meet two other rangers and they would take me the second half. I left confident and excited for the journey. That is until we turned off the road and began the trail which was straight down....and covered in mud. I thought, ok, I've done this and I can do this. After an hour or so downhill my legs were starting to protest. All I could think is if I've walked this far down, does it mean I have to walk back UP the other side??? Oh and where the second set of rangers were....as we obviously had to be close to the halfway point. Right??? Long story short---we were no where close to half way. When we did reach half way, I was still trying to smile, but I dreamed of what I would do to my crazy travel agent that thought this was a good idea....even if that travel agent was me. Lol. Hey, I had 2 choices, either try some great mantras and laugh and stay positive or cry like a little baby. Especially when the downhill became uphill. I'm writing this, so you know I survived, However, hiking at around 8 to 9,000 feet for 7 miles in the jungle with who knows how much elevation change is not how I plan to spend a day again anytime soon. My asthma agrees with the plan :) Around 6 hours after I began, I made it to the lodge. They all seemed a bit surprised that a sucker had decided to actually walk to the lodge. They were very kind and brought me a ton of water and fruit juice while I sat and did nothing for a long while. No photos were taken on my walk--if I stopped for a sip of water, the rangers were heading back up within in minute or two. This was not a time for photographs (plus side--I can vividly remember many parts).
I was a bit panicked that I wouldn't be able to go on my scheduled hike for mountain gorillas the next day. The gorillas are in the same forest I traversed the day before. I told my driver my concerns and asked that he please get in into the slow group. The next morning, my legs were definitely sore, but the adrenaline and excitement of seeing mountain gorillas again, allowed to put one foot in front of the other and head out. I told my driver I was even slow to walk to breakfast and could he pretty please ask for me to go in the slow group. He finally agreed. I had heard from travelers in Rwanda that they had hiked for 6 and 7 hours in Biwindi and that idea freaked me out. I didn't need to worry. I got lucky. There were only about 20 people total there to see the gorillas that day. They divided us into 2 groups (Uganda typically allows more people per group, but on this day, we were 8 and 9 people) and both groups saw their families in quick order.
This gorilla experience was quite different from the one I had in Rwanda. As I mentioned, we found the gorillas pretty easily after maybe 30 minutes of hiking---and they were pretty close to the trail. The gorillas were spread out in a jungly area. At first I only saw 3 gorillas and then as leaves would part, I could see more. I was so fortunate to see a mother and her 4 month old infant. They were bonding and it was a beautiful scene. I crouched and watched them for probably 20 minutes. I could have stayed longer, but the Silverback was ready to move. He came from further back in the jungle and approached where we were. He sort of checked us out and then posed. There is no other word for it. He laid down and put his hand on his head like a model in a painting. He moved his head from side to side, but stayed essentially that way for a few minutes (I guess to ensure we had all gotten a good photo!). From there he led the troops down to the trail and walked the way we had come (so closer to the ranger station) and the gorillas followed at their own pace. We followed then and after a bit, the Silverback cut back into the jungle. He was hungry. The gorillas all took a tree and started climbing. We heard chomping and the occasional snap of a branch as the gorillas moved about....and after the prime eating location was found, sounds of "hey, that is mine" or "I'm not sharing". Nothing violent, just establishing the order of who qualified for the best food first. We were pretty deep in the jungle even though we had only walked maybe 10 minutes from the trail and the foliage was so dense there were times it was hard spot a 400 pound gorilla in a tree directly above you. Hardly any light filtered in---was a primordial kind of place. I tried to take photos, but all they were were dark blobs next to darker blobs (leaves next to the gorillas, but you'd never figure that out from the photos). The time limit is the same in Uganda---only an hour. None of us were ready to leave, but it was time. We were all a bit surprised at how close we were to the ranger station when we emerged from the forest. We had maybe a 10 minute walk on the trail. That was great for my legs that day, but I wonder if this family of gorillas were more habituated to people than the others. I think the answer has to be yes. They are comfortable hearing noises from the nearby ranger station and lodges and likely see people every day, even if a group isn't assigned to visit them that day. I'm not sure that is a terrible thing, but I wonder if this family could survive if they headed further back in the forest again. Just thinking out loud.
Since I was done with my gorilla trek by 10:30am or so, I had time to explore the area. As many of you know, I have my Masters degree in Public Heath and that is a passion of mine. When I travel, I like to see health care facilities and hear from their public health teams as what their challenges and success are for their area. This community hospital was one of the most functional regional centers I've seen. I had made an appointment and my contact showed me around the campus and highlighted many programs such as their NICU (they have 4 incubators), a hostel for pregnant women where they can stay for free until they deliver (reduces complications), a family planning center, and a team of community health workers that head out on motorbikes to local communities. This is just a short list of the amazing things they do. The data support that their efforts are making a big difference (cases of malaria are down significantly, as are water borne diseases, for example). Unraveled Travel, LLC was pleased to donate $500 to help them continue the public health efforts. They get a good portion of their budgets from donors and volunteers who come to work at the facility for weeks or months (an orthopedic surgeon and her team from Switzerland was one group there).
I also had time to visit a women's craft collaborative where all of the money spent went back into supporting the women. I had lunch at Biwindi Bar which is an initiative of Biwindi Lodge (where I was staying) which is also part of Volcanoes Safaris. The restaurant is a place where local men and women can enroll in hospitality and restaurant training. Students prepare and serve the food and for guests of Biwindi Lodge the food and drinks are all included. The restaurant is open to the public and they pay the menu prices. I had my best meal in Uganda at Biwindi Bar---it was excellent! The photos below show my lunch, the street where Biwindi Bar is located and the main dining area at the Biwindi Lodge (which is right in the forest).
My trip to Uganda was quick as the next day I was headed to Entebbe for my flight home. As I mentioned Biwindi is pretty isolated, so my journey began with a 2 drive to an airport. Airport isn't quite the word I would use---it was an airstrip cut into a field. I knew the plane would be small, but it was tiny (photo included above). There were 2 pilots and 3 people on board (one of them being me). The flight to Entebbe is about an hour and I was a little nervous, but even with some rain storms in the area, the flight was smooth (thankfully!)
Entebbe has flights to many major cities and I traveled back to the States via Amsterdam. Once we are able to travel again after the time of COVID-19, I would enjoy the opportunity to help you plan your next journey--to Africa or elsewhere. Take care and stay safe!
Yes, the main attraction of most people's trips to Rwanda (and Uganda) involve the Mountain Gorilla. I started with this photo because it shows what lots of us are feeling in the moment---this photo is sort of like a psychological test---is the gorilla frustrated, sad or just being lazy in the time of social distancing? COVID-19 has already taken a toll on the Mountain Gorillas. We are genetically so close that diseases humans have (colds, flu, etc) can be spread to the Gorillas. Under normal circumstances, a viewing distance is monitored by the park ranger, but since we don't know what (if anything) COVID-19 will do to the Gorillas, Rwanda has temporarily stopped all visits. Ugandan visits are basically on hold because the borders are closed and there are no tourists there to visit the Gorillas. That is OK in the short term out of an abundance of caution, but in the long term it could destroy the progress made against poachers. Poaching was reduced because other ways to make money were introduced with tourism---from trackers to find the gorillas, to wait staff in restaurants and park rangers to provide security for both tourists and the animals, as well as craft people to sew linens, weave baskets, or paint for decoration or to sell to tourists. If those jobs are gone, so are the economic opportunities for the people living in these areas.
So, all of that to say, once borders re-open and travel is possible again, it is even more important than ever to support travel that supports the still endangered Mountain Gorilla (and other sustainable wildlife tourism). There are currently an estimated 1,000 wild Mountain Gorillas in the entire world....up from 480 in 2010. That is a huge accomplishment in a decade and will only continue if visitors come and support the infrastructure in place to save this species.
I know you have all come to my travel blog to hear about my experience. Visiting the gorillas in the wild had been a dream of mine for years. Probably since seeing Gorillas in the Mist or seeing their photos in National Geographic. Sometimes when you are so excited to see something---hype it up so much---the reality can be disappointing or underwhelming. Not so in this case! There are typically 12 gorillas families that can be visited---the other few families are for research purposes only. Each family can be visited by only 8 people each day (plus the warden and trackers). That means only 96 people can have this experience each day. Some families tend to be further away from hiking starting points and other tend to stay closer to the trails. The gorillas are wild, so they move each day. There are no promises as to how long it will take to see the gorillas or even if you will see them at all. Typically, about 95% of visitors see the gorillas, so those are good odds. I asked my driver for a shorter hike as opposed to a long one. I wanted to be in good shape by the time I saw them :) I also have asthma and hiking at 8,000-9,000 feet can be a bit of challenge. I was assigned my group and after a short briefing by our park ranger, we were on our way. We hired porters (similar to my experience on the chimp trekking). Our gorilla family turned out to be about a 2 hour hike in. We were not running up the mountain, but we were not slow.
We were told that we were close to the gorillas and so we had to drop our backpacks and walking sticks and leave them with the porters. We walked maybe 5 more minutes and all of a sudden a bamboo tree moved. We could see a black blur in the distance. We all fumbled for our cameras trying to capture a photo. Looking at those photos now, I could convince you it was a Mountain Gorilla, but you would have to use your imagination :) We were all excited that we had seen one gorilla....smiles all around. The warden used the machete to clear a bit of a path and when we popped our heads out the other side of the jungle there was a little clearing....filled with 10 gorillas! You do have to stay about 20 feet from the gorillas, so the 8 of us were all pushed up against trees to keep the required distance. The gorillas carried on about their day without caring we were there. There was a baby nursing on his mom, several juveniles (3-4 years old) playing and wrestling just like human kids do. They were vocal and grunting and squealing. Some of the younger gorillas were climbing all over their moms and the Silverback (the dominant male) and you could hear the sighs much like human adults let out when they are frustrated with their child. We were lucky and had found them on their rest period after eating breakfast. The guidance is to spend some of the time taking photos---you obviously want to document these beautiful creatures---but also to put down the camera and just experience. Take in the noises, the smell, the facial expressions. There were some shots I missed, but I don't care. The image in my head is as permanent as a photo. One was when the Silverback decided to get up and move. He didn't take his time....he got up and was moving our direction in seconds. Not threatening, just switching locations....but when 350+ pounds moves in your direction, it is hard not to hold your breath or let out a little gasp. You are advised to be quiet---limit talking and when you talk to just whisper. You are also told to stay put and absolutely do not run. This is one instance when the gorillas didn't get the memo about the distance we were supposed to be keeping. Occasionally gorillas make contact with the visitors (mostly accidental) and once the Silverback completed his move, there was about a foot between me and him. The park warden rearranged us to get back to the required minimum distance. You are allowed exactly one hour to be the Gorilla family and trust me, that time goes by in a blur. At about the 10 minute warning, the Gorillas decided it was time to eat again and one by one, they moved into the nearby trees and started climbing. Some of the branches were stronger than others....we heard a thud or two when a branch snapped. At least one of the juveniles thought it was the best game ever. He snapped a branch and came rolling out of the forest with the biggest grin on his face before heading back in and trying again. The gorillas were all either hidden or eating in the trees when we left. I couldn't believe how lucky I was to have seen what I saw. If we had found the gorillas even 30 minutes later, my experience would have been very different. Each family has their own dynamic and the trackers and researchers do get to know their patters well, but this is far from a choreographed event. This is their jungle and we are simply visitors. Talking with other tourists, the Mountain Gorilla experience is different for every group and every day. Some people saw even more playing than we did and others only saw a few members of a group and they saw no playing or interacting....just some napping.
These few photos give you an idea of what the jungle looks like. In the beginning, there are some basic trails. As you get closer to the gorillas, the paths are made by the warden. You basically walk right through the jungle. The photo is of me and Solange, my porter. Even though it is warm, you need to wear long sleeves and long pants since lots of vegetation has thorns or will scratch you. You also need gloves (sticking out of my pocket) as the area is full of stinging nettle---not a pleasant sting, short lived, but still something to avoid.
The hike back everyone was chatting about what they saw and how amazing it was. I was giddy...couldn't believe I had actually seen the gorillas and it was way better than I anticipated. My driver/guide has joked if I would be ready for some champagne when I was done. I thought he was kidding, but upon our return around 12:30pm, he pulled out a bottle from a cooler. The amazing people at the One and Only Gorillas Nest had added the special touch to my packed snack. I've toasted to less momentous occasions, so 3 of us enjoyed a glass while continuing to talk gorillas. I've smiled my way through writing this blog as well....this is truly my happy place. I know that my trip made a difference to the locals as well as the gorillas. I will never forget this experience.
Sometimes life works in mysterious ways...I landed from Africa about a week ago and when I did, the world was different from the one I left 12 days earlier. COVID-19 has changed how we are living at the moment. I write this to re-live wonderful memories of this trip and allow us all to dream and be transported to another place without breaking the rules of social distancing. Travel will come back and when it does, I highly recommend adding Rwanda to your list :)
You may wonder about the title of this post---Rwanda is known as the land of a thousand hills. The country is beautiful! I was able to see a staggering 70% or so of the country in just over a week (Rwanda is roughly the size of Maryland). I began my journey in the capital of Kigali and was immediately taken by how clean, organized and beautiful the city was. This was in contrast to many of the other capital cities in Africa. Rwanda is a leader in environmental legislation and hire people to clean the streets, so they are immaculate. Rwanda has had a ban on one-time use plastic bags for years and I honestly didn't see one anywhere. Also in contrast to other areas of Africa, nearly all of the roads in Rwanda are paved. My dad asked what the roads were like and I said they were way better than those in Chicago (where he lives...).
As you may remember, Rwanda experienced a genocide of epic proportion in 1994---over a million people were killed in a 100 day period. I knew of the genocide in general terms and knew the Tutsi and moderate Hutu people were the main targets. I watched the movie Hotel Rwanda with Don Cheadle. It turns out I knew nothing (and the movie wasn't accurate in many ways). Each region of Rwanda has a Genocide Memorial that includes the mass graves of the victims. The Memorial in Kigali is the most visited and the mass graves there alone hold at least 250,000 bodies. How does one wrap their mind around the kind of number?? The visit at the Memorial begins with a short video of survivors describing their experience and the audio tour and exhibits do an excellent job of explaining how decisions made starting from colonialism (Rwanda was briefly a German colony, before being transferred to Belgium) created an atmosphere over years that allowed this atrocity to happen. It also describes the 100 days and the amazing recovery that has occurred over the past nearly 26 years. It is depressing, but also uplifting to see how Rwandans have handled the aftermath and are now considered the safest country in Africa (and one of the safest in the world).
After my visit I asked my driver very casually if he was in Rwanda at the time of the genocide. I'm not sure why it didn't occur to me that he likely was and that he likely had some terrible stories to tell. My driver has been in the tourist business for over 20 years and sharing his stories are a part of the way he processes what he saw and did during that terrible time. He is Tutsi and had been sent to Uganda in the the months prior so he could continue to go to school. The rest of his family remained in Rwanda. It is not my place to share his stories, but he suffered unimaginable losses. He lost his father, brothers, cousins, friends and so many others. One of his closest childhood friends killed his family. Many Rwandans were in a similar position and they could have all chosen revenge on those that killed their families or they could choose to forgive (or try to forget). An astonishing amount of Rwandans chose not to retaliate---they said they would be just as bad as those that killed during genocide---and tried to move forward. He asked the childhood friend where he could find the bodies of his family and went to try and recover the bodies (this was weeks, if not months, after they were killed). I can't even begin to process how difficult this must have been. He was enlisted in the Ugandan army during and after the genocide--it was the only way to survive---and the stories have no happy endings here as well. Violence took over everyones life in one form or another. He tried to get out of the army to go back to Rwanda to help his remaining family members---his mother and 3 siblings. Eventually a presiding officer took sympathy on him and allowed him a discharge. He brought the money he had earned in the Army to his mother and went to school to be a tourism driver in Tanzania so he could have a future.
We had a chance to talk about the genocide as well as Rwanda today each day as he was my driver for my entire stay in Rwanda. I feel like I know a Rwandan now and have a friend the next time I return :)
I headed to Nyungwe National Forest from Kigali. The main reason I headed here was the chimpanzees. This is one of the few spots in the world you can see them in the wild. I had no idea this area would be so beautiful!
This area of Rwanda grows tea---those are tea plantations in the distance. So green and lush.
The journey to trek for chimpanzees starts early in the day. It is easier to find them earlier in the day before they get active and start moving. I was staying close to the park office, so I could leave at 4:45am, but others in my trekking group were staying further away (not a lot of accommodations in this area) and had to leave at 3am. We were assigned a group of chimps that required about an hour's drive to the hiking start point. Trackers go out early each day to find the chimps and then track them while one of the park wardens lead the group to the chimps (they are in touch by cell phone to have the most up to date info). The maximum number of people allowed to visit the chimps each day is 12. My group had 5 the day I went. I had heard that the chimp trekking could be challenging and a porter was recommended. A porter helps to carry your day pack and help you in tricky parts of the trail. My advice is to take a porter even if you are an expert hiker. These are very rural areas and there aren't a lot of economic opportunities. Tourism related activities employ more people than most other industries (other than tea). Poaching (killing the wild animals) is down dramatically now that tourism has brought other ways to make money. Each spot is different, but the suggested pay for a porter is between $10-$20. That is a large amount for the porter and a drop in the bucket for Americans traveling in Rwanda.
I was surprised to see a woman as part of the porter's group. I asked my driver to hire her for me (many porters do not speak English). I try to employ females during my travels as often as possible. Many women face discrimination and I want to support them. My driver said there are only a few women porters in Nyungwe.
I was there in the very beginning of the rainy season and I knew things might be a little muddy, but I wasn't expecting what I found. I guess this was still nothing compared to how muddy things can get, but the hike to see the chimps can be a challenge---a lot of up and down and to do so on slippery slopes is not fun. I didn't even have a minute to take a photo. The warden begun the hike and it was on...every brain cell was engaged with not falling. The porter Irene probably saved my life (or at least my leg) more than once. We started around 7,000 feet of elevation and gained about 1,000 feet in about 1.5 hours of hiking. I was exhausted by the time we saw the chimps. However, all tiredness was forgotten when I saw the chimps chomping on a fig and leaf breakfast :)
Chimps don't like muddy trails either, so they were all up in t he trees during our allotted one hour of viewing. The forest is quiet---just sounds of the birds and insects----so you can hear them chem and crunch while eating and can even hear them when they are grooming and scratching. It is really a phenomenal experience to be part of their world! The hike back was easier because I had the memories of the chimps fresh in my mind. Needless to say, after all of the mud and help I needed, Irene received a nice tip. It is also customary to trip the trackers and the park warden.
This is just the beginning of my trip experience, but this ends this first blog post. More to come....
I’ve heard several clients say here lately “ I will never go on a cruise” and then we start to discuss what they do want to do…and in the end, they choose a cruise. I’m not saying everyone should cruise or that every trip is right for a cruise. However, I decided to use this as an educational moment :)
Most people think of HUGE (2,000 to 6,000 people) cruise ships like those operated by Carnival or Royal Caribbean or any of the other big names when they think of cruising. Yes, of course, they are in the cruising business and I do not mean to imply that these are bad cruises, because they are not. However, they certainly aren’t for everyone. Or, they may work for someone’s first cruise, but then people may want to explore in a different way….or you may sail with Royal Caribbean 30 times in your life, but that isn’t the focus of this little post :)
The purpose of this to show you the other options out there in cruising.
One of the reasons that cruising is popular and often works out well as a travel option is you can see many places in a relatively short amount of time while only having to unpack once.
This is very true in destinations like Europe. To be able to see Denmark, Germany, Sweden, Finland, Estonia, Russia (and perhaps other countries) in the span of 7 to 10 + days is amazing. If you flew between these destinations, it would take you a week and you would see nothing other than the inside of an airport. In port you do have a limited time (normally around 8 hours), but if you fall in love with a place, then you know it is worth the return trip to explore more in depth.
If you want to see Alaska and experience being outside kayaking, looking at glaciers and marine mammals (whales, etc), you could fly into one city and drive from there. To see all you want to see, you would likely have to pick up and move to at least once…and even from a home base, you would have to take boats out each day to see what you want to see (and many of the most beautiful areas are not accessible by land). That can all be a bit logistically challenging and time consuming. A cruise on Uncruise, for example, allows you to kayak right from the ship and go out into smaller boats to explore the glaciers. The boats are designed for Alaskan waters and there are 100 or fewer people on board. In port, you can hike or bike or walk around and explore. There are naturalists on board and your fellow travelers are typically well educated and active. There is no 24 hour a day buffet (but you are well fed).
Another example is Hawaii, if you want to visit several islands in one trip, you used to have to fly from one island to another. Now, there are a couple of cruise lines that visit the Hawaiian Islands.
In Asia, there are sailing options that cover lots of ground and stop in places that don’t often have as many visitors because they are off the beaten path. I’m talking about ports in Borneo, the Hundred Islands of the Philippines, islands off Cambodia, little ports in well-known countries like Indonesia (very different from the typical destination of Bali).
For Antarctica, cruising is the only way to get there (unless you land a coveted spot on a work team stationed at one of the outposts).
Cruising can also give you a place to stay during a busy event. Take the Grand Prix of Monaco. Hotels are sold out or cost a fortune during the event. However, cruise lines like Windstar dock in the area and stay overnight so you can experience the Grand Prix and not have to worry about finding (or paying for) a hotel. Windstar can also get you tickets and VIP access to the events.
So far my examples have all been for ocean cruises. There are of course also river cruises. While river cruises don’t cover as many miles per sailing as ocean cruises typically do, the ports that you visit are often difficult to get to on your own. They are often further removed from the main train or flight routes, and to have a more immersive experience in an area, a river cruise can provide an easy means of transportation. River cruises are not limited to Europe (although there plenty of options there). There are river cruises in the US on the Columbia, Snake and Mississippi Rivers. There are cruises on the Ganges in India, the Amazon in South America and the Mekong and Yangtze rivers in Asia. The Nile cruises in Egypt are more popular than ever and there are options to combine river cruises and safaris in Southern Africa. This list is not exhaustive---there are many, many options.
There are ships of varying sizes and shapes to take you on these journeys---from options that hold 8 or 10 people upwards to the giant ships I mentioned earlier. Some options welcome children and offer a lot of activities to keep them happy and engaged and other options are for adults only. Ages vary on each type of sailing, but the average age continues to drop and millennials are choosing to cruise more than previous generations did when they were younger.
There are also several options to charter boats where you just sail with your friends and family (or co-workers, church group, or other people you know). It isn’t as expensive as it sounds and the per person rate can often be LOWER than booking rooms on a regular sailing.
Please feel free to message me with any questions you may have or to learn more about options that might work for your journey.
Jasper and Banff National Parks in Alberta, Canada have always been on my dream list. When I saw I had a window of time to travel this July, I went for it. I knew traveling in high (peak) season would pose some challenges, but sometimes you just have to go for it :)
As your travel advisor, I would highly recommend not planning a trip like this at the last minute. I started planning one month out and the trip revolved around the 2 nights that Jasper had availability. I looked at the entire months of July and August and found ONE option for a 2-night stay! (Henry, my dog, was on this journey with me and I needed a pet friendly place, so that narrowed my options)
I took my time driving from Oregon to Alberta and with each passing mile the scenery became more and more spectacular.
Traveling in peak season has its perks and for this trip is was beautiful weather. Jasper had had measurable snow one evening about a week before I arrived (which would have been fine with me), but the weather was 80 and sunny when I arrived.
Driving into Jasper village was a bit of let down. It was RV's parked as far as the eye could see. Little stores and restaurants lined the streets and at 6pm or so there were no shortage of people out and about. The hotel I stayed at was about 2 minutes outside of town which made it a little quieter (although a railroad runs right through town). The photo below is looking back into town from my hotel....certainly not a bad view!
I had heard that although crowds were bad (especially at Lake Louise and Banff), if you went out early or late in the day or walked a few minutes away from the main photo spots, the crowds thinned out. So, Henry and I got up early and headed to the Pyramid Lake area (about 10-15 minutes from town). I drove just a few minutes and came around a corner to see elk in the road....and 5 or 6 cars with people hanging out of them taking photos trying to get as close as possible. There are signs everywhere saying NOT to do the things these visitors were doing (the animals are not safe and the more used to humans they get, the harder it is for them to survive). I slowly drove around the mess and continued on my way. I parked and headed out to explore. The parking lot was full, but within 10 minutes, Henry and I had the trail to ourselves. That is until we came across elk...but after stopping a moment to let them continue on their way, Henry and I did the same. This path took us from Pyramid Like to Patricia Lake and beyond (it actually went back into town).
Henry and I found a quiet spot and sat undisturbed for quite awhile. People were walking across the bridge to Pyramid Island (the trees in the middle of the water), but we had a nice moment of tranquility. More people were starting to appear around 11:30am, so we headed back to the hotel for nap and lunch. We headed back out around 6pm and visited Maligne Canyon (pretty, but still very crowded!) and Lakes Edith and Annette---all about 15 minutes from Jasper. As the evening went on, we had more and more space to ourselves and Henry and I could just appreciate the beauty.
The next morning, it was time to eat breakfast and hit the road on the famous Icefields Parkway. It is a scenic 233km journey from Jasper to Lake Louise. There are lots of places to stop along the way and I was looking forward to a leisurely drive. I knew some stops would be busy, but little did I know how busy! I stopped at Athabasca Falls and while the parking lot was nearly full, I found a spot and got out to explore. The sounds of people were louder than the rushing water of the falls. People were everywhere! I think there must have been a hundred buses parked somewhere to have this many people. Henry was freaked and I can't blame him---we caught a small glimpse of the falls and left. Back on the highway, there wasn't much traffic and the scenery was beautiful. A few minutes later there was a similar sight as the day before with cars parked all over the road looking at something....this something happened to be a bear....and people were getting out to get a better picture. I just don't understand how people think this is a good idea. To my knowledge, no one was eaten or injured that day, but it is only a matter of time. Once I could get around the cars, we continued on our way and went to stop a couple of other times at what I thought were less popular places (more like picnic stops).....well each time I turned off I realized why there weren't that many cars on the road....they were all parked or trying to park somewhere! These parking lots aren't small mind you---some were as big as a football field and it still wasn't big enough to contain everyone. I knew the Icefield Center would be busy (most say this is the highlight of the drive---you can take a special vehicle onto a glacier, there is a museum and glass overhang view point), so we stopped at the Stutfield Glacier lookout about 10km kilometers before the Center.
This lookout was busy enough and the theme of my trip seemed to be to think crowds were big...until I went to the next place and I thought now, these are big crowds.....only to have notion toppled the next hour. The Icefield Center was crowded by anyone's standard. The view of the glaciers were gorgeous (I saw them out of the corner of my eye while driving) but the dominant view was not of the glaciers....it was of the hordes of people and all sorts of vehicles. The parking lots went on forever and there were still people finding no place to park. I am not a big advocate of limiting access, but if there was a case, I think Banff is one place where it may be needed. The environment can not handle all of these people.
Speaking of crowds, Lake Louise certainly has them. I had seen photos of Fairmont Château Lake Louise (a very nice hotel right on the lake) for 20+ years and always wanted to stay there and so Henry and I booked one night. I thought one of the main perks would be to see the lake after the day visitors left....well, that wasn't really true. I asked at reception when things quieted down and she said between midnight and 3am is pretty quiet. What?!? That is crazy! To put this in perspective, there are several remote parking lots that shuttle visitors to Lake Louse and nearby Lake Moraine....in addition to parking lots closer to the lakes. After seeing the traffic, I decided the best perk of staying at the hotel was being able to give my name and drive right into the hotel parking garage :)
Lake Louise didn't disappoint and it was true that if you walked for 10 or 15 minutes, the crowds did thin out. I don't think you will ever be alone at Lake Louise, but with some effort, it isn't overwhelming like it is right at the start (where the shuttles drop off people and the main parking lot is located).
The Fairmont didn't disappoint either...it is a beautiful hotel in an even more beautiful location. The next morning was the first time we had rain on this trip, so I didn't get any morning photos from Lake Louise, but even clouded in, it is gorgeous. I understand why so many people want to see it.
We headed out for the short 50 minute or so drive to Banff. If you can't tell by now, I don't love crowds....so I booked a hotel about 2 miles from town and that was a great decision for me. There were hiking trails I could walk to from the hotel and I chose a package with half board (breakfast and dinner) so I didn't have go into Banff at all the 2 nights I was there. The drive though Banff to get to the hotel can hardly be described as a drive---I think I maxed out about 15 mph as it was all essentially a slow moving traffic jam from entrance to exit. Banff is great if you want nightlife and plenty of shopping and things to do (Gap is right on one corner...who doesn't need a new shirt when visiting a national park?).
The same advice worked in Banff---head out early or late and you lose the crowds even a bit outside of the city. There are lots of multi-purpose trails (mountain biking/hiking) and plenty of wonderful views. We saw maybe 5 people in an hour and a half hike on Tunnel Mountain. I consider that a huge success! What was really a success is that Henry and I sat in peace and quiet in the meadow for nearly 20 minutes before a few bikers passed through. Even in one of the busiest places, I'm always amazed when I find a hidden spot (although this wasn't very hidden--it was 5 minutes from my hotel).
After 2 nights in Banff, we were on our way. I would have loved to stay longer and explore more in the quieter areas, but the main lesson in traveling in peak season and booking only a month out is that accommodation is expensive. These areas are expensive even when you plan a year in advance (the recommended amount of time). Expect to pay between $300 and $400 per night for a pretty average hotel room (and $500+ for a luxury property). If it grew legs and walked 100 miles away, the room would likely go for more like $100 or $150, but that is old adage of location, location, location.
There are exciting ways like the Rocky Mountaineer train to visit these areas if you aren't into driving. You can also choose a home base and do day tours...or join a full tour so you don't have to think about anything other there where to take the best photos. For my travel style and for traveling with dog, I highly recommend having your own car (either driving there or getting a rental at the airport). These national parks are huge and the ability to get off the beaten path made all the difference in my trip.
I look forward to helping you plan your next adventure.
Todos Santos has become more popular in the past few years and I can understand why. This little sleepy town is the opposite of what many people think of when they think of a Mexican vacation (huge, all-inclusive resort where you never experience much, if anything, outside of the resort). To get to Todos Santos, you fly into San Jose del Cabo's airport---the same as if you were heading to Cabo San Lucas. The similarities end there. When I landed the other night around 9pm, it was a muggy, 85 degrees or so at the airport. I figured that is June weather in Mexico. My driver said the temperature would be nearly 20 degrees cooler when we arrived in a little over an hour in Todos Santos. I thought he was exaggerating. Well, sure enough it was a wonderful 68 degrees when we arrived. Cabo is known for many luxury resorts---both all inclusive as well as room only properties. The resorts can be large, but are still small compared with many in places like Cancun. Cabo certainly has a reputation for partying as many of my fellow travelers on the plane were loudly planning where to take their first drink. Todos Santos has a couple of main streets and mostly boutique size properties with a more hippie, artist, chill reputation. There are some options for surfing a few minutes out of town and this area (and La Paz) are known for whale sharks during the winter months. There are lots of marine animals year round and plenty of options to head out on boats to get closer to the action.
I'm visiting for a friend's wedding and they rented out a property just outside of town called San Cristobal (down a long dirt road). It is part of Liz Lambert's Bunkhouse group and they have a reputation of building properties that reflect the culture of the area they are located.
This hotel is one of the bigger ones in Todos Santos at a big, whopping 32 rooms. It is right on a wide expanse of beach with rocky mountains to the left. The area next to the hotel is used as a launching point for boats heading out to fish. Not huge commercial boats...little boats with small town fisherman. What is caught locally is served locally. It is mostly quiet and relaxing. It makes Guayacura Boutique Hotel (where I stayed my first night in Todos Santos) seem like a bustling city hotel....which in its own way is true. Guaycura is a 3 minute walk to the main plaza of town and the entire town is within walking distance. The trade off is you hear traffic as it is on one of the main roads. A rooftop bar and restaurant help make it feel more serene. Photos of San Cristobal are above and Guayacura are below.
The next part of my journey began with some sun peeking out of the clouds...so on the drive back to Lahad Datu, I actually saw more monkeys than I did my 2 nights in the rainforest. Funny how life works! I wished I could sit and watch them for a bit, but my schedule to get to the next location was very tight. I had another driver waiting in Lahad Datu to drive me another 1.5 hours or so (this time on paved roads) to a boat jetty. This drive wasn't supposed to be scenic, but it turned out to be fascinating (and I don't mean that in a very positive way). Once outside the city, I started seeing palm plantations...and as the drive continued, that was pretty much all you could see in any direction. We passed huge trucks full of palm fruit headed for processing and small kids running with baskets trying to pick up what had fallen off. This industry has consumed large parts of Borneo. After asking some questions, I learned that most palm trees bear fruit for between 15 and 25 years and then they are clear cut and often burned to the ground only to be replanted with another palm tree to continue to cycle. To see the clear cut plantations were sad...nothing but burned out stumps well into the distance. I had heard the river valley where I was headed was full of wildlife which on first glance sounded amazing, but then I learned why---essentially all of the habitat in the surrounding areas was gone. There are laws about having a buffer zone between industry (the plantations) and native forest to allow for some transition for the wildlife and people. I learned that in practice, that is not the case. I was truly stunned to see the scope of the palm plantations. They were not spread out in between towns or just every so often...on this drive they were everywhere.
Not to be depressing....as I'm sure most of you are reading this to hear about the Orangutans...but this is the backdrop of this experience. Once I arrived at the river jetty--I was a mere 10 minutes ahead of the scheduled 1:30pm departure to the resort (the only one of the day) and was surprised to learned that there were no other guests at the resort. I had a private everything! We headed off for the 1.5 hour boat ride to the resort. I sort of questioned the craziness of the commute, but once I saw how remote I was, it was completely worth it!
The Kinabatangan River is the second longest in Malaysia and is the water is a beautiful shade of chocolate. Since it was just us, the guide stopped and showed me lots along the way. I saw a slumbering crocodile along the bank---a good 3 or 4 feet long---and after the guide said "oh, he is asleep after a big meal and is lazy"---the croc decided to jump up and leap into the water. We were probably 20 feet away and in a boat, but that splash made me jump :) We saw lots of birds--including eagles---and then the guide found an Orangutan. The photo is above. Can you find him in the tree??? Hint, he is towards the middle of the photo on a branch to the right of the trunk. To be honest, I was excited and yes it was an Orangutan in the wild....but I also thought really, is this as close as I'm going to get?? Expectations can be a trip killer and I had in my head that I would be able see Orangutans closer in. With binoculars I did see some definition...at least enough to know that I was looking at an Orangutan. The places we stayed did a good job of explaining that wildlife in a rainforest environment is much more difficult to see as part of a safari....as opposed to the wildlife safaris in Africa. The environment is completely different and even if guides tried to know the routines of each primate, the jungle offer millions of places to find cover. Lions and Leopards just don't have as much room to ride....and travel on the ground and not up in trees, so this is the nature of the experience.
Well, while everything I just wrote it true....I got lucky :) In the afternoon and morning boat rides, I saw so much! I was grateful to be able to see the rare sight of an Orangutan sitting on land (as opposed to sitting in a tree) and so, so many Proboscis monkeys (found only in Borneo) along with several other kinds of primates, trees that had spikes along the bark as a defensive mechanism, snakes, birds, monitor lizards.....and the list goes on and on. To be on their turf and just observe gave me chills on more than one occasion. I was a guest in their world and it felt very primitive....like I had gone back in time. Well, until other guests joined me on Day 2 and took cell phones photos of everything we saw. That pushed me right into the 21st century!
We had a guided night walk along the boardwalks of the resort and saw animals I had never even heard of like a mouse deer and some kind of huge scorpion who THANKFULLY keep hiding from us!. The other night it was a night boat ride and we went to a section of the riverbank that has a special kind of tree that attracts fireflies. If you are like me, you are thinking of the lighting bug type of fireflies...flashing neon green in the back yard. Well, these fireflies are the size of ants and congregate in this type of tree and communicate with light. It looks like someone hung Christmas tree lights...it is crazy! The guide pointed the flashlight towards the tree and it was an instant reaction of a million bright lights. They were trying to figure out who was trying to chat with them. What a cool, unexpected surprise!
The journey to leave the resort was also 1.5 hours, but I was headed to a new place. I decided to add on a visit to the world famous Orangutan rescue center and nursery in Sepilok---just in case I didn't see an Orangutan in the wild. More on that and the rest of my trip in the next installment....
I'm not a huge "bucket list" type of traveler...running around trying to tick something off a list isn't typically my style. However, I think we all have bucket list or dream trips....and Borneo has been one of mine for many years. If you are like some of my friends, you may not even know where Borneo is :) Borneo is an tri-country island in Southeast Asia--part of the island is Malaysia, part Indonesia and part Brunei. I visited the Malaysian part and spent time in the Sabah region.
I have so much to share from this trip that I've decided to break it up into sections. This part will be about my first destination (I flew into Kota Kinabalu the night before...the main city of Sabah, but only slept a few hours before heading out). I flew into Lahad Datu and began the 2.5 to 3 hour drive into the rainforest of the Danum Valley. Let me go back a bit---the reason this was a dream trip of mine is that I love animals and support efforts to keep them safe in their natural habitat. Orangutans are only found in the wild of Borneo and their numbers have been dwindling in the past few decades because of habitat destruction. One of the main economic activities for people living in Borneo is palm oil production. Primary rainforest (the home terrain for Orangutans....and other creatures) is torn down to build palm oil plantations. Those plantations are just as they sound---mass planting of palm trees designed for maximum output of the part of the tree used to make palm oil. The few remaining areas of wild forest--especially primary forest (meaning it has never been torn down)--are now areas for eco-tourism. Me (and my money) came to these areas in the hopes of seeing Orangutans in the wild.
Back to the journey---the drive from Lahad Datu is mostly on unpaved roads. With each minute that passed, I felt like I was going deeper and deeper into another world. Most of the drive is in what is called secondary forest---forests that have been replanted in the hopes that the eco system (and all its critters) will return to what it was years ago. The rainforest grows fairly quickly, but you can tell secondary from primary.
I stayed at Borneo Rainforest Lodge--a leader in the eco-tourism market of Borneo. I knew it was exceptional because of its location, but I had no real idea what the lodge would look like as the website is out of date. I didn't care---I was going for the wildlife and if I was in rustic accommodations, no big deal. Well, was I in for a pleasant surprise! We arrived around 10am and were greeted by a team of staff---fresh drinks and fruit and taken directly to our gorgeous room. The rooms were recently upgraded and looked to be out of a design magazine. One wall is all windows overlooking the Danum river....there is also a balcony with a plunge pool and an indoor/outdoor shower. I was completely immersed in the rain forest and the design was very sensitive to the unique location, but it is 5 stars all the way.
I visited in the shoulder season---a time when the weather is pretty good and the crowds are less. The resort can hold more than 80 people in the 30 chalets, but there were just 6 people when I was there. There were many more staff than guests and my experience was phenomenal! The food was excellent (buffet and food stations to order al la minute) and there was lots of variety. I had my own guide for excursions and they were scheduled at 3 per day-- morning walk after breakfast, one in the afternoon and one in the evening.
I knew there were leeches in the rainforest. I have had leeches on me before (in India) and while I wasn't looking forward to having another get attached to me, it was the price to pay to be in the rainforest. The resort sold leech socks and I knew they would know better what I would need than me trying to order in advance from the States (what do leech socks even look like, right??). I got a quick lesson from my guide and proceeded to get prepared for our afternoon walk.
The quick overview is that leech socks look sort of like a Christmas stocking....larger than normal socks. You pull them on over your normal socks and pants and cinch the drawstring above your knee (they come in multiple sizes). You then put your shoes on over the leech socks. Wearing leech socks do nothing to deter the leeches from getting on you...but it does add another level of protection from them getting attached to your skin---as some can attach to you through a layer of fabric.
All dressed and ready to go, we headed out into the forest. There were all sorts of sounds--of birds, frogs, insects and occasionally monkeys. We got about 10 minutes of dry weather before the rain started falling....and it poured. It was still fun to explore, because it is a rainforest and it rains....sort of adds to the atmosphere. We saw lots of little critters and smelled some Orangutan (think monkey house mixed with a man that needs a shower and wet fur...not exactly a scent I would bottle and sell as perfume!). However, Orangutan....and other primates...don't like rain. They retreat to nests in the trees and cover themselves with leaves. Super camouflaged, you could be right under one and not know it. We were lucky enough to see some very playful red leaf monkeys once the rain calmed down a bit. Photo NOT attached because I had on the wrong lens to get a good photo (good lesson to learn early in a trip!). We headed back to the lodge and the real skill isn't getting dressed to go into the forest....it is trying to get undressed without getting one of the leeches on your skin. They are all over your clothes and you have to slowly pluck them off and make sure nothing is attached. I am not exaggerating when I say it takes about 30 minutes. Once naked, the shower feels great as after every adventure, I was soaking wet and dirty.
It was raining for the night drive, so all we saw was a glimpse of an elephant....who made it known that he was NOT happy to see us! So, the driver decided it was wise to get out of there. The next morning it was raining again but I decided to try the hike with the guide up to the lookout spot. I figured it wouldn't be a view for miles like it can sometimes be, but I wanted to explore. I saw several monkeys on the way up---more red leaf monkeys, Gibbons, and long tailed Macaque, as well as all kinds of insects and bugs. The view from the top made me feel like I was on top of the world....and alone in the world (in a good way!). Very peaceful.
In the afternoon, I tried the canopy walk. It is a great way to get above the rainforest and see things in the trees at eye level. It was dry when I started but after getting to the highest platform and hoping to see some primates.....the skies opened up again. This was not the part of the trip where I would see the Orangutan, but wildlife sightings are never guaranteed and I left the Danum Valley the next morning hoping I would see Orangutan at my next stop (spoiler alert: since I have a photo of Orangutans...you probably know how stop 2 went!). More on that later....
It is that time of year to reflect on the previous 12 months and look forward to what the next year has in store. I'm grateful to all of my wonderful friends, family and clients that made 2018 wonderful....and truly an adventure! Looking back at 2018 in photos, I enjoyed re-living several awesome travel experiences :)
I'm looking forward to new adventures in 2019. I'm heading to Guam on New Years Eve to see my husband and continue to explore more of Asia. In January, we will be going to Borneo which has been a dream of mine for years. We are staying deep in the rainforest and hope to see Orangutans, Proboscis monkeys (both only found in Borneo), pygmy elephants, the largest flower in the world (supposed to be as big as a truck tire!) along with lots of other wildlife.
In June I will be headed to Todos Santos, Mexico (about an hour or so from Cabo San Lucas) for my friend's wedding. I will also be checking out several properties that opened in 2018 to help give you all some perspective on where to stay.
In between, who knows what life has in store??? I'm hoping to see Alaska in 2019 and of course plan to head back to Europe for a visit (Germany for sure, but maybe also another visit to Italy??). I hope to make it to Hong Kong or Shanghai in fall and I'm sure I will add on a few other destinations to make 2019 amazing!
What is on your travel list for 2019? I would love to help you plan your journey!
It is hard for me to believe that 3 weeks ago today I was getting off the Windstar ship in Osaka. In many ways it feels like months ago. In my last random thoughts post, I focused mostly on Japan. For this one I will describe the time we had in Busan, South Korea (with one follow up item from Japan at the end).
We had one port stop in Busan. Due to a typhoon in the area, we had to readjust our itinerary and cancel two port stops in Japan. We docked in Busan for 3 days instead of the original one. That gave us more time to explore. South Korea isn't far from Japan geographically, but culturally, Koreans are quite different. The atmosphere was different, as well as things like food, fashion and architecture.
Day 1 my husband and I headed to the fish market. It is the largest in Korea and they are known for on-site preparation of whatever it is you would like to eat. The fish and seafood are kept alive in small tanks and the expectation is you point to fish #1 and say I'd like to have that for lunch. The fish is killed and prepared in a restaurant upstairs. As someone who is mostly vegetarian and believes that all creatures should live and thrive in their environment, this market made me uncomfortable. The holding tanks were small and crowded. My husband, on the other hand, was thinking of eating one of the local delicacies....baby octopus....which is served alive. Even after hearing stories about how some people nearly choke because the tentacles stick to your throat as you eat it...the cost is ultimately what made him change his mind (thankfully!!).
This fish market also extended outside and continued along several streets. The fish part slowly turned into more of a general market with kimchi, vegetables and spices. The outside section of the fish market did not have as much live fish---most were on ice or dried or salted.
Day 2 was with a private guide and I think we literally saw every inch of Busan. Frank did an excellent job of showing us everything we wanted to see. Our first stop was at Haedong Yonggungsa Temple---supposedly the most beautiful temple in Korea (I've only seen two, so I probably shouldn't chime in on the issue). It is built along the ocean into the cliffside. The views are amazing and the architecture is gorgeous. As you enter, there is a walkway with stone tablets symbolizing each of the Chinese Zodiac animals (each representing specific years of birth). For example, I was born in 1976 and that was the year of the dragon. Once you complete that path, you start down a series of stairs down to the main temples. The area is forested and if you didn't know you were heading towards the ocean, the view around the bend would be surprising.
Next we headed back towards the city. Busan is a beautiful city---there are several bridges with jaw dropping views and it is an interesting juxtaposition with all of the tall skyscrapers.
We visited the United Nations cemetery in Busan. The remains of soldiers of all nationalities are interred here. I knew some about the Korean War, but after hearing the presentation at this cemetery, it was clear I only knew a small part of the equation. I learned that Turkey sent a large contingency to Korea during the war as they are considered brother countries---with ancestors going back hundreds of years sharing the same (or similar?) lineage. I only know enough now to know that I don't know enough. The cemetery itself is immaculate and well maintained. There are memorial plaques from many of the counties involved in the war and there is a large wall of names with a reflecting pool and eternal flame for all of the lives of Americans that were lost in the war.
The last stop of the day was at Beomeosa Temple. This temple is outside of the city in the mountains (takes about 45 minutes to get there). We arrived later in the day and there were only a few other visitors. It gave the experience a surreal feel. There were lanterns with wishes attached at the bottom that are burned once all of the slots are full--bringing the wishes (or perhaps better to say prayers) to the heavens.
In response to a comment from my last blog post, I will end with TOTO. When I visited Japan for the first time more than 20 years ago, it was a are sight to see a Western toilet. On this trip, nearly every restroom had not only a Western style toilet, but one with bells and whistles. I of course should have taken a photo of a TOTO toilet and all of its functions (to be clear TOTO is a brand of toilet, but there are other manufacturers of electric toilet seats) to help illustrate this point....but I guess I was so excited to use all of the buttons I forgot :) In all seriousness, I was a little scared of the options at first. Nearly all of the toilet seats had a heated feature and that one was usually turned on automatically, but others you had to choose. You could have water spray on your front side, back side, both sides at once. You could choose the water temperature (from cool to warm) as well as the strength of the spray (high-medium-low). There was an option to play music on some models as well as a button to have a flushing type sound play if you were embarrassed by the sounds your body was making. There were buttons that I had no idea what they did....even with the helpful pictogram shown on the button (some things just can't be explained with a stick figure person!). Once I got over my fear, I was hooked. It became part of my routine and now back in the States, it seems boring to only have a the option to flush. Japanese ingenuity at play again. There are still Japanese squat toilets available in restrooms (somehow I did take a photo of this) and it seemed to be a 50/50 split in most restrooms. It would be fascinating to know which demographic prefers the fancy toilet vs the squat toilet, but I imagine that is a conversation for another day :)
Tracey is the owner of Unraveled Travel and has traveled to every continent except Antarctica.