I have been to Italy more than 15 times and there are still areas of the country that I haven’t visited. I feel like I could go 50 times and still find areas I haven’t explored. For this trip I was going for an invitation only luxury travel advisor event (one of only 200 advisors invited to attend!). The event was held in Milan---somewhere I had never visited. Milan has traditionally been known as a destination for business meetings and those interested in high end fashion. That has changed over the past 10 years and Milan really has so much to offer. Of course you can visit the iconic Duomo and do some wonderful shopping, but there is also a great food culture, many museums to visit and is a great home base for exploring some of the neighboring lakes (Lake Como is easy to see as a day trip from Milan). Milan also had great connections (by flight, car or train) to the rest of Italy so it logistically makes sense to add it onto an itinerary. Before my meetings started, I took a train to Bologna. The train takes less than 1.5 hours and both train stations are in the city center, so no need for a drive to the airport. Bologna is known for many things----it has the oldest university in the world (that is still operating), the old part of town is very walkable and of course it is known for its food. This region of Italy is sometimes called Italy’s Kitchen. Emilia Romagna produces world famous Parmesan Cheese, Balsamic Vinegar, Prosciutto di Parma and many kinds of filled pastas. I hired a guide and she took me to the vegetarian highlights of the region. First stop was a dairy producing Parmesan cheese. The cheese is made once per day and they start early (so expect to leave Bologna before breakfast). The dairy I visited was quite small and family run and I could see many steps of the process during my visit. The aging room is crazy big---towering shelves of cheese just waiting for the perfect moment to be eaten. After the tour comes the tasting. I’ve had my fair share of higher end, artisanal cheeses, but this Parm was to die for! They also make ricotta cheese with the leftover whey. Eating that fresh, with a little honey, is also a nice treat! Our next stop was Modena to visit a small, family run acetaia---a place where balsamic vinegar is made. The vinegar is made in special barrels and the barrels are kept in the attic where the vinegar is exposed to the seasons with both heat and cold. This is not your grocery store vinegar---some of the barrels of this acetaia have been used for hundreds of years (some back to the 1500’s). It was really interesting to learn how the vinegar is made and even the lowest grade is still aged for a minimum of 12 years. You also get to indulge in tasting at end of your visit here and I know that sounds less exciting than the cheese, but I was pleasantly surprised. Even straight up, the vinegar has an interesting flavor profile. I was also able to taste balsamic jam (a nice compliment to cheese) and taste creama gelato with a dribble of vinegar on top. Who knew that gelato and vinegar went well together?? It was an excellent pairing. I enjoyed Bologna for the weekend before heading to my week of meetings in Milan. After a very productive few days where I met nearly all of the luxury hoteliers in Italy (plus local guides and small tour companies), I knew I needed a break. Meeting all of these connections allows me to offer you insider access and really understand each of the properties so I can recommend the best hotels for your needs. However, talking 16+ hours a day is exhausting! So, I headed to Lake Garda. A new property, Cape of Senses, had just opened and looked amazing. I took the train from Milan to the nearest train station and had a driver take me the 25 minutes or so to the resort. The property overlooks the lake and is just above the little town of Torri del Benaco. Cape of Senses is a very peaceful place to stay with excellent cuisine and wonderful spa services. Each room has outdoor space to breathe the fresh air and enjoy the scenery. They have sourced nearly everything from the local area so you and the whole property smell like a beautiful mix of all that is good in Italy. You can hike or bike or tour the local area…or relax and swim, lounge in the sauna and enjoy the spa. Lake Garda has tourists, but it is a small fraction of the numbers that Lake Como has. It is a destination that Italians visit, so the vibe is different (in a good way). I finished up my visit to Italy in Rome. I’ve been to Rome several times, but I hadn’t been in about 8 years and Rome has changed. The luxury hotel scene has blossomed, and the guides have created many new ways to see more of the off the beaten paths of Rome while visiting. I’ve seen the main sights many times. (I still went and walked near the Colosseum because when in Rome….) This time I hired a guide that I have used for clients for almost 10 years. It was wonderful to finally meet her in person! We did a culinary walking tour starting in the Jewish Quarter. We nibbled our way through lunch and then she took me to what might be the smallest bakery I’ve ever visited. I think maybe 3 people could fit inside and they make 4 things….and make them well. The guide had tempted me with ricotta cake topped with homemade cherry jam, so that is what I ordered. I’m drooling thinking of it now. Italian sweets are mostly not sweet like we are used to in the States, but they are flavorful and use the freshest ingredients possible. We tasted our way through several areas of Rome and made a stop at the Pantheon. The entrance system has recently changed and I wanted to experience it for myself so I could better explain it to my clients. In a nutshell, get the tickets in advance (entrance is free, but you need a ticket). We also walked by the Trevi Fountain and all of its craziness (not sure why this fountain is so much more popular than the many others in Rome?). Rome is a vibrant city and has lots to offer, but it always feel a little removed from the rest of Italy for me. I always recommend balancing your time in the city with time in quieter areas---this is true for Italy and many other locations. 2025 is going to be a popular year to visit Italy because of the Jubilee. This is in simple terms a religious pilgrimage and many of the holy sites in Italy (especially Rome and Vatican City) will be stops along the pilgrims route. Italy is always popular with visitors and 2025 will likely be even more crowded than usual---so if Italy is on your list for 2025, please contact me soon so we can make arrangements while there is still availability for hotels and guides.
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AuthorTracey is the owner of Unraveled Travel and has traveled to every continent (thanks to the recent visit to Antarctica! Archives
October 2024
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